My research has revealed considerable variation in length. He was killed WW1 22/3/1918 when a German gas shell landed on the ammunition cart he and his horse was attached to. What are the “general woolens” and “general cottons”? Thanks! I am a very keen owner of flannel trousers and suits and have excessive numbers of both. It’s nice if subtle and slightly hidden, so you only see it by degrees. You can also subscribe without commenting. That said, what am I looking for in the leg fit? – I don’t have much of a preference between forward and backward facing. How close should the leg hug the thigh before it’s too close? Probably my Sexton great coat, unless it's too warm in which case my navy Cifonelli. However, he said he can add faux cuffs (french cuffs) to them. I have heard conflicting ideas as to what’s causing this (seat too tight, too loose etc.). Much appreciate your seemingly endless commitment to answer all our questions! I have an SB worsted navy jacket like you describe. From your vast experience, can you advise re point 2? The closer the shearing is to the ‘backer’, the softer the moleskin. – And no, a crease isn’t necessarily required for trousers with turn-ups, though they may suit it better. And on the size of your feet, given they are relative to the shoe. For a slightly more casual outfit, wear a tattersall shirt tucked into moleskin jeans and top with a contrasting belt. simon, do you typically get your wool trousers lined? And if so, how did your tailor fix it? It depends what you mean by excessively. Different tailors use different measurements – width or circumference, inches or cm. Here you say but not too narrow! If I buy RTW chinos from Cordings – doesn’t the judgment if their width is too wide partially depend on my own body? (White silk scarves being…, The guide to cloth for black tie (or tuxedo), Thanks Bert, and yes I agree on not seeing high fashion just in that way, Fashion is running out of ideas, faster and faster, Click on an image to enlarge. As always, thanks for the response. I’m a regular reader. They are smooth and sharp for a reason. Might it be possible to do a similar thing regarding shirts? You mentioned the first pairs of trousers a man should own. I’ve only tried the side metal adjusters so I don’t have any experience with the daks adjusters. What shade of color will be the best/most versatile for my first pair of flannels? Hi Joey There are certainly some materials that are more suited to summer or winter, but I would say we can safely combine them on the same list. Fresco trousers (are they as light as linen but without the creasing?). Generally charcoal is the safest colour there. More relevant for things like shirts – closer to the face. So think RTW chinos. Joined Feb 19, 2013 Messages 25 Reaction score 3. Bigger piece coming on it soon. Cheers! Anyone who you could recommend as doing good, heavy, RTW linen trousers? It could do, yes, but don’t worry too much about the material or pattern. Not sure if this is the right thread to ask this but I have a pair of trousers that I’d like to add cuffs. You’re probably right Enzo, though a lot of suit trousers will still look too shiny and sharp to work with a jacket. Very true. I too am a fan of DAKS style side adjusters. I don’t find besom flare much less and I prefer slant pocket style – besom pockets look like they’re floating. Ensure you wear the trousers this season with our classic collection of mens moleskins, chinos, corduroys and jeans; perfect for any occasion. The soft, velvety texture is likened to the skin of a mole, which is how the fabric gets its name. Simon, Are there any wool fabrics you could suggest to go with such a jacket? I can’t recommend anyone in between those two unfortunately. I currently have the following problem related to the article. Black is a very hard colour to wear in menswear outside evening clothing, and not one most guys wear as a result. Hi. Particular finishes, as well as weight and construction, could quickly move a pair of trousers up or down the scale. I visited his grave in Brie France for the 1st time last Sept. Pingback: Moleskin: A Unique Fur Once Favoured by British High Society. At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis. Or, try sizing up in trousers so they fit in the seat and thigh, and then have the waist taken in. I did order a pair from Saks in their sale which were billed as “italian fit” but unfortunately they were too narrow on the calves for me though I was impressed by them other than that. It’s almost too many details on one pant. And worn with other more youthful things, eg a leather jacket, nice knitwear etc. I visit London very rarely, and having just moved to a new city I’ve yet to discover the local shops. I had some MTM trousers made, and though they were well fitting, I looked like a pencil stick in them (together with my dress shirt). (The waist and thighs were fine, just the lower legs were an issue). The same colour as my grandfathers army trousers…but don’t have the gold stripe down the outer edges!. But it holds a crease a lot better and is smarter Cordings didn't have much in yet for moleskin, but their brushed cotton twill had dimensions fairly close to what you are looking for. Permanent Style is the UK authority on classic and luxury menswear. Generally, here we mean ready-made chinos, which will often be garment washed, giving them more of a worn-in look. It’s hard to describe the fit in that much detail, and the drop from the seat is a slightly personal choice as to how you like the slimness there. Moleskins. It’s a little chicken and egg, but everyone’s chasing the money and it’s mostly in youth. Joined Oct 22, 2004 Messages 7,630 Reaction score 3,908. Permanent Style is the UK authority on classic and luxury menswear. No, it doesn’t vary that much, and if it did it wouldn’t mean the jackets couldn’t go with different trousers. Do any stores stock a wider range or do Incotex only make a very limited range of models with a tendency towards very thin legs? They are smooth and sharp for a reason. Our men's moleskin trousers are an extra-smart option thanks to their special cotton fabric. The leg/knee area? If you want a shirt to emphasise breadth, have it cut a touch bigger on the shoulders, and not too close in the waist. www.telegraph.co.uk. Reading the above advice got me thinking: I like the idea of wearing cream chinos or tan, but would this be appropriate for the evening? It depends on what you would want it for. I rarely see a trouser or chino darker than the jacket and wondering if there is a way to wear dark, odd trousers well? –JC. Being a first pair, I’m thinking the chosen cut can be a “transition pair,” as a way to get me used to wearing casual trousers up the scale of formality without sacrificing the simpatico comfort of the chino zone. I’m not an expert, but I’ve always thought moleskin was the perfect thickness for moleskin haha! Not in summer… I will probably go with tropical wool trousers. Are you sure? Probably my Sexton great coat, unless it's too warm in which case my navy Cifonelli. 2. Bedford cord is durable, and has the same soft feel as moleskin, but isn’t quite as thick. On tailored trousers, it’s generally better to take the waist in, but it depends on your body shape. Ie. Deep sigh of relief! But it has the issue that it can look a little too showy or fancy, given its brightness. Heavier ones retain their shape a lot better, and soften after the first clean as well. I would not normally have fresco as a sports coat – more a suit or trousers. Not necessarily, chinos can be fairly smart if in a finer cloth. Generally pleats are more formal than flat fronts, but not much. A cut that’s on the narrow side, though not skinny. The problem will be that there is unlikely to be much inlay (excess material) there. Brown nearly always looks good with jeans, but there is not reason you can't extend this to navy chinos for either shoe, whether they be moleskin or "standard" cotton (moleskin is just a heavier cotton fabric).
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